Welcome to Archer’s Queer Fashion Files! Each month, we’ll interview trendsetters and tastemakers, showcasing the diversity and talent of the fashion world. You can check out all episodes of our Queer Fashion Files here.

In Episode 11, Hailey Moroney chats to Scarlett Bronte, the creator of Sable Jewellery, about jewellery, mental health and asexuality.

Sable Jewellery is a small jewellery label run by Scarlett. For the past four years, she has found inspiration in her love of fantasy worlds, creating organic shapes through a technique called lost-wax casting. Scarlett operates Sable from behind Solari Studio, a new retail space in Abbotsford which she runs with her partner.

Hailey Moroney: First things first, hello! I love diving deep into the internet presence of my Queer Fashion Files contributors prior to interviewing, and aside from all your beautiful jewellery, you’re quite the enigma online. So I’m very curious to know: when and how was Sable born?

Scarlett Bronte, Sable Jewellery: Hello! I’m a second-generation jeweller, and so jewellery has been a huge part of my life for as long as I can remember. For the first 25 years I was playing a support role; many weekends were spent at markets and galleries, or creative planning.

As I delved into another career I had less and less to do with it, until in 2020 when I needed an overhaul, and jewellery became a creative outlet for me. I’d sat at the bench many times in my childhood and teens, but didn’t feel like it was my place until I moved away from traditional fabrication to explore lost-wax casting.

From then, I was dedicated: I had found my medium. I slowly set up the outlines of a business in 2020 and 2021, as I taught myself and gathered tools for my own workshop. After lockdown I’d planned to either study jewellery or look for an apprenticeship, but studying wasn’t for me and apprenticeships are hard to secure, so I decided to continue figuring things out on my own.

Now four years in, I’m opening a shop!

HM: What is the meaning behind the name Sable Jewellery?

S: The name was decided over a really sweet few days in lockdown, where we would paint and draw on the front porch in the sunshine and drink teas and wines. I was designing rings and envisioning a jewellery-centric future.

I had played around with the name Scarlett Bronte Jewellery, but I’m a bit of an introvert, and the idea of having myself at the forefront of a brand was stopping me from putting anything out there. By having Sable as a formal buffer, I feel more free to post online.

My border collie Pie is a sable colour, and I had that word drumming in my brain. Sometimes when I like something, I kind of have blinders on to other options. This happened with Sable, and I couldn’t feel connected to any other names.

HM: How does your identity and lived experience inform your creative practice?

S: My experiences with mental health and my asexuality have been driving forces that have caused me to feel isolated throughout my life and creative practice.

Anxiety and depression made me look inward to a fault and I was never kind to myself. It took me a long time to make art, even though I knew how strongly I wanted to do it. I wouldn’t allow myself to create anything for literal years. Now I feel like I’m trying to make up for lost time, while also trying not to compare myself to where I would be if I’d started years ago, because that’s not a helpful comparison for me to dwell on.

Feeling more comfortable being asexual has freed me to connect with people more honestly, and understand what I want to focus my art on. This may live outside of trends, mental health, understanding of asexuality, my creative and personal relationships – these things have all risen together.

Things were so grim before I started creating jewellery, but by melting down that life, I’ve been so lucky to restructure it in a way that honours the parts of myself I needed to give attention and be most kind to. 

HM: I like to show emerging artists and creatives the hustle in the years building up to their success. So tell me, what jobs outside your creative practice have you had? What was the process to support yourself in the build up to your dream? 

S: Before jewellery, I was working full time as an NDIS support coordinator, and had done stints in hospitality and aged care, while studying psychology.

When I started the journey of teaching myself jewellery making, I was also starting completely fresh, with no security besides a Jobseeker allowance because I’d cut all my ties, very dramatically. I found work in hospitality, support work and DJing, but my favourite part-time job – and a real turning point – was at a magnet factory.

I had the warmest support network of creative people to introduce me to Melbourne. It was a refreshing side-gig, because you didn’t have to put on a façade, we all found enjoyment there while working towards other goals. Unfortunately they closed local manufacturing so I got up the courage to apply for work in jewellery, and I’ve worked part-time as a bench jeweller for Millie Savage since! This was two and a half years into jewellery, and I’m still working there two days a week, leaving me enough time for Sable Jewellery and Solari Studio.

HM: You’ve recently opened a pop-up in Fitzroy. How do you navigate being a small business owner and all that comes with it? I mean, there’s the accounting, social media management, orders, staffing and of course, creating your pieces! Do you have a team?

S: One hundred per cent, navigating all of those roles is super challenging. While I would love a team, it’s currently a one-person show.

It’s actually something I love about having a small business though. I feel like day-to-day, my strengths and weaknesses fluctuate, so rather than being in a static role where certain things are required of me that I might not be able to meet that day, I instead have endless tasks with different physical and mental requirements, so I can pick what I have capacity for that day. That’s the most positive spin I have on the overwhelm!

Excitingly though, the space used for the pop up, Solari Studio, is going to be a permanent store, opening July 11. My partner Ryan is going to be running that side of the business and I’m excited to not only share the load, but have someone to bounce off and keep me accountable. The store will be stocked with independent jewellery and clothing labels, and I’m really excited to widen my community and provide a platform for small businesses!

HM: I see on your Instagram that you attended and contributed pieces for Melbourne Fashion Week. Can you tell us about that experience?

S: I remember being so excited about this experience! The opportunity to have pieces walk on a runway, I thought my world would change dramatically! In the end it was more of a personally exciting experience, rather than something that shifted my business trajectory as I had fantasised.

Loaning pieces for this changed my understanding of jewellery in the context of style and fashion – I think people see it as the finishing touch or cherry on top of a great outfit. For exposure on the runway, it wasn’t so efficient, but I think it bodes well for individuals as they consciously search for ways to self-express. If someone tried to replicate a runway look, a garment can easily be found and purchased, but the jewellery is not so easily identified, so that element at least remains personal.

Jewellery might not be the thing people notice immediately, but it can be the pillar on which you build your style.

HM: Lastly Scarlett, what is next for Sable?

S: Honestly I’m excited to get back to the bench and focus on designing and creating a new collection to release later this year in the store. And I’m so close to opening customs again, and want to work on engagement, celebratory, special rings and pieces!

The last six months have been consumed by setting up Solari Studio, but my focus is starting to centre once again on Sable which will operate in the workshop behind the shopfront. I can’t wait to see how the two parts play out when we open.

Also, please visit us at 250 Johnston Street, Abbotsford from Thursday, 11 July!

You can stay up to date with Sable Jewellery on Instagram.

If you want to pitch an idea for Archer’s Queer Fashion Files, email pitch@archermagazine.com.au with ‘QUEER FASHION FILES’ in the subject line. You can check out the rest of our Queer Fashion Files here.